5 Pakistani Sweets to Devour with your Cuppa

Chai ke saath kuch meetha ho jaye?

Tea is entrenched in the Pakistani way of life. Come winter, come summer, din mein kuch martaba chai to banti hai. While chai is my love, meetha is my life. Shaam ki chai with some meetha is my daily ritual. That’s just how I unwind, with my feet up on the sofa and a good episode to watch or maybe just catch up on Facebook. During Ramzan, however, my chai and meetha session gets pushed to late at night once the iftar, namaz, dinner etc are done and my blood cells are screaming for some sugar therapy.

I do enjoy my cup of tea with biscuits, cakes, pies and tarts but Pakistan also fairs well in providing yummy sugary options to enjoy my peace and tea with. Here are 5 ways you can enjoy your cup of bliss with riwaayati meethay.

Public Service Message: It all tastes best with mix chai, not the tea bag wala drama. Add a cardamom or two while the tea is cooking for an extra kick of flavor!

Disclaimer: Do not read while fasting. Pictures may be injurious to health - and eimaan.

Gulab Jaman

As soft as a good sweet should be, Gulab Jamun, with its poetic name, is the sweet of the Mughals. The name is derived from gul and aab in Persian which mean flower and water respectively. Aab is there for the ingredient rose water which gives it its signature aroma. Jamun is part of the name because the shape and purplish colour are reminiscent of the fruit jamun.  One gulab jamun with my late night cup of tea makes me sleep a happy woman. If you're in Karachi, visit Burns Road and have a few from the theyla right next to Babu Bhai’s bun kabab stall. It will be a trip to heaven. That's my guarantee!

My gulloos do look glamourous in those ramekins. Hmm!

That is history in your spoon which will turn to heaven in your mouth!

Jalebi

I don’t like my jalebis with iftar. Their awesomeness gets overshadowed by the sheer joy of just getting to eat at Maghrib. My piece of jalebi deserves its own time slot, I believe, so I can pause to hear the crunch when I bite it and allow the taste to reign in my mouth.  Hence, I save my piece for later and love it with my chai.

 Isn’t this orange, pretzel lookalike, sugar syrup dipped sweet just beautiful?

Muft Mashwara # 1: Warm it up in the oven before digging in, NOT the microwave please.

Multani Sohan Halwa

Sohan Halwa is definitely a gift of the City of Saints, Multan, for the entire subcontinent region. This 200 year old mithaai comes with a variety of nuts but my personal favorite is the one with walnuts. I love it because of its sumptuous flavor, its sticky, toffee-like texture and also because my childhood memories are attached to it. My father used to travel a lot when we were young and used to bring Hafiz ka Sohan Halwa from Multan every time he visited the city for work. For me, it is the ideal condiment with tea.

Muft Mashwara # 2: Warm the halwa in the microwave before making this sinful indulgence; its taste reaches record-breaking levels this way.

I was happy to know that Hafiz Sohan Halwa delivers the product throughout the country and now this gorgeous Multani sweet is just a few hundred rupees away, if you really want it authentic. You can place an order online here. Of course, it is also produced by various bakeries in Karachi and other cities but no where will you find Sohan Halwa to be more delicious than the one prepared by Multani producers!

In my bachpan, after the halwa was consumed, the tin box used to turn into the sooi dhagay ka dabba or dawaai ka dabba

For an interesting read on the history of Sohan Halwa, you can click here.

Kasuri Andrassay

These crispy, lightly sweetened, sesame seed covered, cardamom scented sweets are my mother’s favorite most desi sweet and perhaps for this reason, I have a special place for these in my heart. A hot cup of tea, an andrassa or two (or three or four) to hog on and a mindless episode of a Hum TV drama – I’d say that’s a nice way to relax and get your sugar level back to normal after the 15 plus hours of fasting.

It took me a lot of effort to find these in Karachi - and then realized I saw them at Burns Road on one of my trips there. On going back to the theyla, I learnt that they are called 'anarsay' in this part of the country, which explained why no baker understood what I was asking for. They are mostly a Punjabi thing and the best ones come from Kasur. By the way, this gulloos+andrassay theyla is open all night. So this is where you need to be if you want to do 'saari night besharmi ki height' with calories bros!

There they are, behind the deyg of the gulloos

The roti-shaped andrassas resemble meethi tikya a lot, but the former are made from rice flour while the latter from semolina. Didn’t really need that piece of information? Okay. Sorriez.

Almond Naan Khatai from Khalifa Bakers

Koi aur naan khatai nahin, sirf Khalifa ki naan khatai. Hands down, Khalifa Bakers located near Mochi Gate in the old part of Lahore are the best naan khatai producers in Pakistan. The khatais are soft, fluffy, sweet to just the right level and amazing in texture because of the whole almonds that come with every bite. Saath aik chai ka cup, aur rozay mein sahay gaye tammam dukh ghaaib. Like really.

A few years back, getting naan khatai from Khalifa Bakers in androon sheher used to be a mega task. Though I did enjoy my walk through the small historic streets and lanes of Lahore when I made a pilgrimage to the bakery myself. We parked our car at Mochi Darwaza, visited the Wazir Khan Mosque (heart) and then headed to Khalifa Bakers to see the stacks of naan khatais in their glory. Now, however, you can just make a call at 042-37657352, transfer money online and get a box of the amazing khatais delivered to any city in Pakistan within 24 hours. It's great service (saying that with personal experience) so I’d say do yourself a favour and get yourself a box. Now.

Muft Mashawara # 3: Dunk the khatais in tea for maximum pleasure. They taste better like this, like any other biscuit in the world!

Bee tee doubleyoo, an article on these crazy-good naan khatais has been published in the Forbes Magazine, which you can read here if you wish.

Parh ke maza aya? Ab khaa ke mazey lein. Happy Ramzan!

Until next, byeeezzz.

*This article was published in FUSHCIA Magazine as well as TGIF, Daily Times with changes

Note: All food photography has been done at home with my hubby, thanks to his photography skills! You can see more of his work here.

Keep Calm and Summer On – What's on the Bottoms Menu

I have always been big on (desi) fashion – I like following the latest trends and trying on the newest silhouettes. I find spring/summer 2016 particularly interesting because EVERYTHING IS IN! And the best part is, there is so much to experiment with in the lowers/bottoms department. There are cigarette pants, culottes, bootleg pants and the good ol’ shalwars in various cuts. Since the last few days have been a little less taxing at work, I had the chance to go shopping and stocking my wardrobe with new stuff. While shopping for kurtas has been a little boring (same digital and floral lawn prints everywhere mostly), pairing them up with fun bottoms has given my life tons of excitement. So I am going to share with you what all I have done to gear up for the summers and, I tell you, the process has been very cathartic. I will also mention my future plans to look up-to-date with fashion throughout the season.

Cigarette Pants

The most essential item in your summer wardrobe needs to be a well fitting pair of cigarette pants – preferably one in white, one in black and one in off white. With these three neutral colours I feel my life is sorted. One of them always goes with my usual shirt-only purchases. It is also economical not having to match the exact colour with your kurtas. Since my last year’s pants were over used and looked ancient, I replaced them with three new ones. I got the black and the white ones stitched myself; the black ones cost me Rs.1150 and the white ones Rs.1300. I got the beige ones from Daaman for Rs.1100 on sale. Getting pants stitched yourself has a cost advantage of course – you can save about Rs.500-700 this way. For cost/fabric details about the black and the white cigarette pants, plz see the footnote below.[1]

The fitting of the cigarette pants available at Daaman is great BTW if you don’t have the time to get your pants stitched and prefer to pick up ready-made clothing. You can check out more Daaman stuff here. Just as an example of what Daaman has to offer, take a look at these wonderful white cigarette pants!

Bell Bottoms/ Bootleg Pants

So glad that the boot cut is back in the fashion scene around the world and in Pakistan too. I love how our national dress can be made to work with fusion. Though I am not yet tired of the cigarette pants, they look great with any kind of a kurta of any length, it’s nice to have some variety in your wardrobe. I got this two-piece suit from Sapphire’s second volume of lawn for Rs.1650 (plz don’t judge me, I went after the aunty-tornado rocked Sapphire outlets on April 18^th) and got it stitched just like in the picture – a short shirt, about 33 inches in length and a pair of bell bottoms. I am loving the silhouette and the change.

I also got this pair of bell bottoms from Generation for Rs.1198. I love the print, the unusual jade green base colour and the price. I plan to pair it with a short, plain-ish jade green shirt with same-colour lace applique on the sleeves . What do you think? Generation, by the way, has a lovely collection of bottoms of all sorts priced very very reasonably. All of them can easily be paired with plain shirts.

I am also loving these bootleg pants from Rema and Shehrbano for REMA. The organza strip detailing at the bottom give the pants a chic look and these can be paired with more formal shirts. I think I will go for one of these this Eid! If you want to see more of REMA, you can click here.

Cropped Culottes

When it's hot, we all need some air. I love the fact that the culottes, reminiscent of the azaars, are back in action. So hop on the bandwagon and add this must-have trend to your closets! This time around, I am getting them stitched with a shorter length, so that they finish a little above my ankles. I got white fabric and got this organza lace appliquéd – again for Rs.150 only (the embroidery guy is an old acquaintance so is super nice to me). The fabric cost me Rs.350, the lace Rs.300 and I paid the tailor Rs.400 for stitching. Hence in a total of Rs.1200, I got these really comfortable and pretty culottes in my life. I am keeping the paaincha 12 inches big, pairing them with shorter length shirts. Wider legged Culottes are in too (not just in Pakistan but on the Western side of the world as well) but I don’t think I will be investing in those as I buy/make whatever I can also use at work. And I don’t want to be sporting the gharara look at work…so I think these normal looking culottes will do. If you want to indulge in wide-legged culottes, you might want to take a look at what Generation has to offer.

I think a printed pair of culottes or two would add great variety to your new lawn jorhas too! I got this pair of culottes stitched for my Zara Shahjahan print and I love them! By the way, I got this stitched about a month back and now I am ready to shed off another 2 inches from the length of my shirts. The shorter, the better!

Loving my super matching truck art khussas!

Guddi Kaat Shalwaar

So. The shalwar is back. Is that good news or what? During the strict tights/cigarette-pants-only days, I would come back home from work and get into my old shalwaars. Confessions of a shalwaar-o-holic. So to get a little easy with wearing shalwars in public when the season began, I got this guddi-kaat shalwaar made, which is kind of a pseudo shalwar, a little sleeker. Again, I am pairing these with shorter length shirts. The fabric for this shalwar cost me Rs.600 (I love the minimalistic chikan at the bottom) and the standard stitching charges were Rs.400. White goes with everything so this one's my staple – I miss them when they go for a wash terribly.

Kali Wali Shalwaar

If you feel more adventurous and are truly passionate about shalwaars, go for the true Pakistani kali wali shalwaar. You can choose how much gheyr you want. I am liking this kind, with a decent sized gher, not like the patiala ones that we used in 2005 but I have chosen to keep the paaincha quite big. Short shirt, chuna hua dupatta, this shalwar and a pair of khussas – nice traditional look that would be and I am planning on sporting this look during the summer vacations fo shizzles.

Tulip Shalwaar

The dhoti shalwaar renamed and relaunched as tulip shalwaar. I have hated it, I have found it super weird, I have questioned its existence, I have had my coming-to-terms-with-it phase and now I absolutely love them. You have two options if you want to wear these – there is the sleek one and then there is the gheyr one which has more cowls. I think I will be going for the sleek one as dinner wear and will be pairing it with heels. The gheyr one sounds good for day-excursions and would look so cute with khussas or kohlapuris. What say? If you want ready-made ones, a few shops are stocking them but they are relatively pricier than other bottoms. I have done some research to find where they are available. You can get them at Ayesha Khurram (Lahore) for Rs.4,000, at Gulabo for Rs.7,000 and for Rs.8,500 at Misha Lakhani. The silver lining in my life is that they will soon be available at Beech Tree for Rs.1,450. Better deal, yahoo! My tailor on the other hand has promised to stitch them for Rs.1,000. I shall be making a decision about this sooner than soon because I have never worn a tulip shalwar before and really want to experiment with the look. Looking at pictures, the style available at Ayesha Khurram is my most favorite and probably investing in a ready-made pair is safer as who knows what the tailor may perform like! You can check out more of Ayesha Khurram here. 

Cowl Shalwaar

Another new kid on the block which is pulling me towards it with great force is the cowl shalwaar. I am loving these printed ones at Gulabo which are available for Rs.5,500. Priced a bit steeply, yes, but the modern prints combined with a traditional cut will make you drool! Perfect for a casual coffee date with a friend! Or maybe a juice date in this heat. You can have a look at the options available at Gulabo here and also get ideas of how to rock the look! 

Tights – the old friend

I shall be honest. I am holding on to my black pair of tights. I was worried that it will be a fashion suicide to still use them but most of the shops are still selling them – they are still available at Khaadi, Gul Ahmed, Beech Tree and Sapphire. Tights are super economical and very, very comfortable. You can do any sort of movement in them and they will maintain their shape. So with some of my very western looking kurtas, I will be using my black tights. I love them quite a lot.

Khaddi has tights with a little embroidery at the bottom as well if you find plain ones too boring. Have a look!

Nice trip down the Pakistani fashion road? Hope so! Let's just say that there are few issues in life that retail therapy and a plate of biryani cannot cure –Your own hard-earned money, nice silhouettes to flatter your body type  and a hot plate of biryani will keep you feeling empowered for life. So go for each of these elements relentlessly and be happy!

Until next time, ciao!

*This article was published in FUSHCIA Magazine

[1] For the black one, I got the lace for Rs.200/yard from The Plaza (the pathaan market at do talwaar in Karachi) and had it appliquéd for Rs.150. The fabric is stretch cotton (available at The Plaza and Aashiyana market) which gives my legs the room to move without fearing that my fitted cigarette pants will rip if I bend to pick something up. The fabric cost me Rs.400 (be nice to the pathaan at the time of purchase) and the tailor charges me RS.400 for stitching a pair of pants. Total cost: Rs.1150. I got the fabric for the white one from Lahore Centre in Lahore for Rs.900 – the lace at the bottom was part of the fabric. Hence total cost: Rs.1300.

Keep Calm and Travelanka – 10 reasons why Sri Lanka should be your next travel destination!

Picture taken in the streets of Galle

I am a picky traveler and take my trips very seriously. For years I ignored Sri Lanka, although my husband makes frequent trips to the country for work. However, in the past 7 months, I ended up travelling to Sri Lanka twice, by CHOICE, and have fallen in love with SO many things about the little island-nation. Now, I want to be a walking-talking-advert for Sri Lanka and encourage everyone to go, explore, fall in love and come back as a satisfied tourist. I am not surprised to learn that the English word ‘Serendipity’ - meaning 'a happy accident' takes its roots in Sri Lanka. Your visit to the country will surely be a journey of happy accidents and stumbling upon pleasant surprises!

Sri Lanka has a lot a to offer and I simply love the maps you get at the airport and hotels showing in pictures and icons what Sri Lanka is all about. 

It is a small country and till now I have seen just a little bit of it but a lot needs to be covered in the future (hopefully). Below I am going to talk about what I loved about this country and why I think you should go too. Go to Sri Lanka because:

1. Of the People

Sri Lanka happens to have the sweetest people I have seen and been around in all the countries I have visited to date. They are genuine, helpful and all-smiles, giving the most warm vibes to tourists. The hospitality you receive at hotels is unparalleled. There are no tourist scams – of course you have to be careful wherever you go, but there is a general feeling of safety (the opposite of what you feel in Thailand because of the many tourist scams). The best thing is that they love Pakistanis! When you tell someone that you are from Pakistan, you receive a thumbs up with the statements ‘Good Country!’ or ‘Afridi!’. That is definitely heartwarming (and rare these days if I must add). If they request you to stop for a photo, don't be surprised! In fact, that can be quite an ego-booster.

2. It’s Cheap.

By cheap I mean relatively. You can stay at a five star resort for $200, which is cheaper than Thailand. The food, when converted to Pakistani Rupees is as expensive (or cheap) as you would get in Pakistan. The shopping too is very affordable, so are the water sports, renting a car or entry tickets for sightseeing. So you should definitely go there if you are looking for a budget-holiday.

3. The sunset at the Galle Rock is one of the most beautiful you’ll ever see.

I read about watching the sun set at Galle Rock is one of the things-to-do in Sri Lanka. But mind you, only seeing is believing. I love sun sets. I love watching the sky change its colours from blue to orange to red to black. I love how the sun does its job and then gives way to the moon to come and take over the sky. And if you love this magic show too, Galle is the place to be. As the sun sets, the calm, playful sea waves turn into raging monsters, splashing against the huge rocks, making so much noise, yet being so soothing for the nerves.

Galle however is not just a must-go to see the setting sun; Exploring its streets with little shops and restaurants and quaint little houses is a lot of fun. Walking along the fort walls and imagining where the colonizers' ships would dock and what all they would loot from Ceylon, how they would protect their walls makes you feel like a part of a story. If you’re lucky enough to be in Galle on a rainy day, I am sure you will not be able to forget the visual delight you will experience. It is one of the most photogenic cities I have been to and some of our best pictures are from there.

Rocket Burger

Galle Cricket Stadium, visible from the Galle Fort walls

4. It’s the best place for home shopping

I went to Sri Lanka with a no-shopping slogan but came back with a lot. And since my shopping experience was beyond amazing, I dedicated a separate blog to show the world what I bought. You can see my shopping here.

The stuff that I regretted not buying includes the wonderful paintings I saw at Bentota and the leather chairs and footrests which I saw, again, in Bentota. The price of the paintings ranged between PKR 600 – 4000 depending on the size of the canvas. The price quoted for this original leather chair was about PKR 8,000 but I am sure I would have gotten a better price had I bargained. I should have. Also, there is a HUGE variety of wall masks. If you're a fan of those, Sri Lanka is the place to be.

5. The beaches are lovely

Sri Lanka, being an island, is the land of endless gorgeous beaches. Whichever time of the year you go, you will get the opportunity to put on your beach hats, rub on some sun block and lie on a beach bed, reading a book while sipping a mocktail, do some people watching or just doze off. And of course swim in the crystal clear Lankan waters. The Unawatuna beach has some sort of nightlife and a party vibe (though not like it is in Thailand, much slower) and restaurants line the stretch of the beach. Bentota is where you need to head to if you want total relaxation. There are various sea-related activities you can do – snorkeling, scuba diving, jet skiing, whale watching, boat tours around mangroves and surfing. I am not a fan of water sports (sorry I have a weak heart) but I was persuaded by my friends to do this mad inflated sofa ride- where the sofa is attached to a jet ski and the jet ski wala gives you the scare of your life while performing his antics. You jump wildly on the inflated sofa, get sore hands while trying to hold on as tightly as possible, get a kilo of salt in your system as you swallow a lot of sea water, you may even fall into the water (my friend did) – it’s a crazy experience. Try karna banta hai.

TIP: Do go for the river safari in Bentota. Those 3 minutes you spend riding through the mangroves is probably the most quaint situation you’ll ever be in life.

 

6. Where else would you see fishermen looking for fish sitting on a stick?!

We went to photograph the stilt fishermen in Weligama, which is a short drive away from Unawatuna. It was a lot of fun watching the fishermen pose on sticks. Taking pictures of them meant jumping into the water and having a hard time protecting our camera from the crazy waves. It was however, a fun experience and the pictures came out great!

7. The food at ‘Chutney’ is amazing

If you spend time in Colombo, you MUST go the Cinnamon Grand Hotel and have lunch at their restaurant Chutney where they serve great South Indian food. I don’t really know much about South Indian food except for dosas so we requested our waiter to suggest what to order. I assure you, at the end of your meal there, you will be in a food coma.

8. The view from the infinity pool at Thawtisa resort is jaw dropping

It is an EXPERIENCE to swim in this pool overlooking the Indian Ocean – peaceful and quiet, just the sound of ripples in the pool and all your eyes can see is blue and green. BLISS. The pool is open till late at night so it is a great way to relax further after relaxing at the beach all day!

We stayed at Villa Thawtisa in Unawatuna and had a great experience. The hotel is located atop a hill so the beach and the market are a short walk away. The walk is not too taxing and you get plenty of tuk tuks in case you feel you can’t walk on your way back. The ride from the beach to the hotel costs PKR 150 -200. You can get details about the hotel here.

9. It feels like heaven at Spa Sanctuary

My husband and I love massages. Europe ho ya Asia, har holiday pe aik massage to banta hai. Spa Sanctuary is THE most amazing place to enjoy a Sri Lankan massage. The spa is quiet and the customer service is super. The massage rooms have a natural setting – they are built in a thatch-like style with breezy white curtains covering the windows. The windows are open, so that the sounds of the ruffling leaves and chirping birds can be clearly heard by the client. There is no AC, just a ceiling fan and the cool sea breeze that ventilate the room. The products used are traditional and ayurvedic. All you can see is green trees IF you manage to open your eyes during the massage. My therapist’s name was Prashanti – if you ever go, do yourself a favour and request for her. As she enchanted me with her moves, I felt myself slowly melting into the massage table, constantly dozing off and waking, in an indescribable state of bliss. It was heavenly. I have acute back pain so I requested her to give more time to my back. I went there thrice (yes that’s how amazing it was) and got the ayurvedic body massage each time. It costs PKR 2400 per visit. After the massage you are also treated with fresh coconut water – and like a zombie, sadly, you have to leave their premises after that. I suggest that you walk straight to 'Koko's on the Beach' to enjoy a good burger.

TIP: Get a booking for yourself a day in advance to avoid not getting a slot when you go. Spa Santuary is very popular and during the peak season (dec- feb), they are very busy! Not being able to get a massage from there would be a major loss for you, trust me.

10. Everyone needs a tech-detox at Sinharaja Rainforest

My one day and one night in Sinharaja rainforest will surely be unforgettable. I had never seen a rainforest before. Because of time limitations, we had to choose between Nuwara Eliya and Sinharaja – so shelving Nuwara Eliya for next time, we picked the forest. We stayed at Sinharaja Forest Edge Hotel which is a small boutique hotel run by Mr. and Mrs. Prasad.  They are extremely warm and helpful people. You get a room with an amazing view of the forest. At sun rise when you peek out of the window, the forest is misty, looking so enchanting.

We reached around lunchtime, had a home-cooked meal and left for a trek inside the forest. We were lucky to get an amazing guide, Hemal, who was truly one with nature. He understood each sound of the forest and by looking at the kind of vegetation and amount of sunlight in an area, was able to find species for us to see from the most unthinkable places – under a leaf, beneath a rock, behind a tree. He was a real life Mowgli. What I loved about the trek was that all I could see was green. All I could hear was silence, interrupted with the coo-coo of birds, the chirr of crickets or the ripples of the water flowing in the river. And of course, I disturbed the silence of the surroundings by my occasional screams when I saw jumping lizards – I think with jumping lizards screaming is not too uncalled for. Agreed? We stopped to rest at a waterfall – what a surreal experience that was. You can take a swim in the water or just lie down on the rocks. It was just amazing.

Here I would like to add that a little puppy made my trek extremely uncomfortable. As soon as he set his eyes upon me, it was love at first sight and  he decided to follow me, putting his life in danger, following me across the river but not losing his love and determination at any point. I was scared the whole time that I might crush it under my feet – it was minute – but who can help love. When we stopped at the waterfall, he waited for a long time to make sure I am not going anywhere. And then he slept – giving me the golden chance of covering him with a leaf and then abandoning – or escaping – him. It was a close call. My husband was made to keep as quiet as he must when my daughter falls asleep after a LONG attempt.

There are no phone or internet signals in the forest. That was nice. It made me appreciate nature, take a pause, think about life and have long discussions with my husband about the purpose of the universe. The stars were clear and bright, the fire (that Mr.Prasad set for us at night) nice and warm. ANOTHER dog slept next to me in peace at this point, this one I didn’t mind, we had a cup of tea and enjoyed a downloaded album of Bollywood instrumental from gaana.com. It was a good night. Lots of fireflies lit up the tall grass fields and the blackness of the night that surrounded us.

On our way out of the forest the next morning, we stopped at one of the tea plantations in the area. I learnt how my most favorite drink in the world is made, I got to try silver and golden tea and enjoyed the breathtaking views of the plantation. It was my consolation prize for not being able to go to Nuwara Eliya. 

Ready to book your tickets? Hope you are!

Until next time, too roo loo!